How to Identify & Value Vintage Clothing: A Collector's Guide

lessons I've learned from buying and collecting vintage for 20 years!

I’ve been collecting vintage for about twenty years now, and let’s just say: mistakes? I’ve made a few. Like the time I found a 1970s Paganne by Gene Berk gown (this exact one — weeping!) on the Halloween rack at my local Goodwill for $2.99 — and promptly resold it on Depop with the caption “great vintage maxi dress, comfy material, just doesn’t fit me!” for a cool $26. I was probably 22 at the time, and I’m sure I thought, score — beer money!

But I’ve come out on top, too.

I picked up my beloved brown suede vintage Gucci bag for just $80. I snagged a cashmere Christian Dior coat in the Salvation Army for $10! You win some, you lose some — and that’s all part of the game.

Now, I’m not a full-time vintage dealer, though I do spend a lot of time behind the counter at my friend’s shop. Reselling is a biiiiig J-O-B, and my hands are already full running Pre-Loved. Still, like any collector, I do an occasional closet cleanout (and, honestly, I’m overdue!) — which gives me the chance to resell a few gems and recoup a little cash. ‘Vintage money in, vintage money out,’ you know how it goes!

And after all those years of collecting, reselling, and learning the hard way, I’ve picked up some tricks I’d love to pass along.

The thing is, you don’t have to be a fashion historian to figure out what you’ve got —but it does take a little bit of detective work.

Over the years, I’ve learned how to read tags, spot construction details, and use the internet (bless Google Lens!) to track down the story behind a piece, and take a stab at it’s value. Sometimes it leads to a five-dollar flea market dress that turns out to be a rare designer sample. Sometimes? Just a really great mall-brand moment from 1993.

So let me walk you through what I’ve learned about identifying, valuing, and reselling vintage. If you’re spring cleaning your closet and thinking about flipping your finds, I've got you.

I’ll show you how to dig up the clues, find good comps, and decide whether it’s worth your time to resell, or if you’re better off with other options. The good news? You just need to know where to look, and how to spot the signs. Plus, it’s really fun! Let’s dive right in: ⬇️