The Smart Shopper's Guide to Vintage Chanel: Iconic Styles Worth Investing In
expert vintage Chanel advice from Classic Coco's Founder & CEO, Alexandra Steinberg, and Head of Restoration, Marah Carpenter
Welcome to Pre-Loved, an indie media platform all about vintage fashion.✍️
This letter is presented by Classic Coco, who specialize in providing the most coveted, curated collection of classic and rare archival Chanel vintage handbags in the industry.
Your vintage Chanel story starts here.
While most new designer purchases lose their luster (and their value!) the moment you swipe your card, vintage Chanel was made during luxury’s golden age when every detail mattered. They were crafted to perfection and these bags were made to last.
Here's the beautiful truth: while you're falling in love with these solid and steady bags, they’re quietly appreciating in value, their 24k gold-plated hardware and handmade construction becoming more and more precious each growing day.
Literally: the price of a Chanel bag has increased 10x since the 1980s, and with the brand raising their prices 2-4 times per year (!!) your vintage piece legitimately becomes more valuable every year spent together.
Now, since several Pre-Loved Podcast guests have told me they want to invest in their first vintage Chanel this year, I figured I’d do my part to help out: reach out to experts in the Pre-Loved universe for the scoop on what bags to choose as you’re building out that collection.
“We are the only vintage sellers to specialize only in vintage Chanel bags and jewelry,” Classic Coco’s founder, Alexandra Steinberg, told me, “mostly from the 80s and 90s—they were the greatest hits!"
No need to scroll through endless listings late at night, with your browser tabs multiplying by the minute. I asked the team at Classic Coco: which bags will make our readers feel like they struck gold every time they carry them? And they answered!
The Best Vintage Chanel Buys, at a Glance:
Best First Chanel, All-Around Most-Versatile and Iconic: Chanel Vintage Classic Double Flap
Best for Work: Chanel Vintage Supermodel Tote, or Chanel Vintage Grand Shopping Tote XL
Most Collectible: Chanel Vintage Crocodile or Alligator Classic Double Flap
Fashion History Legend: Chanel Vintage Diana Bag
Best Summer Statement: shop the Classic Coco COLOR POP collection:
Why Vintage Chanel is Worth the Investment
Vintage Chanel bags from the 80s and 90s offer something modern luxury just can’t replicate: superior craftsmanship from an era when no detail was too small to perfect.
“The best craftsmanship was in that time period, especially after Karl Lagerfeld joined Chanel in 1983,” Steinberg explained. “All of the bags were handmade, and the work was unbelievable— the structure of those thirty-year-old bags are still perfect to this day.”
The most obvious difference lies in the bag’s hardware. “Vintage Chanel bags all have 24k gold-plated hardware, unlike new Chanel bags, which are made with 'gold alloy,’” Steinberg said. These bags were made during an era when luxury actually meant luxury, and shoppers have definitely noticed the shift.
“I always recommend vintage Chanel from the 1980s-90s when buying for the best investment.”
— Alexandra Steinberg, founder of Classic Coco
Smart Shopping: What to Know Before You Buy
Ask about restoration. “I would ask if the bag you are interested in has ever been cleaned, conditioned, or worked on by a leather professional," Steinberg advised. Neglected leather can develop dry rot from within, potentially destroying the bag's investment value.
“Don't be afraid of a restored bag—just ask for detailed photos and how the process was done," adds Marah Carpenter, Classic Coco’s Head of Restoration. “A trained leather professional can maintain the bag's integrity while restoring color and conditioning the leather for longevity.”
She emphasized: “An investment is only an investment if you are maintaining the bag’s value through its conditioning.”
“Like your face,” Steinberg added, “leather is a skin— and if you never moisturized your skin for thirty years, imagine what it would look like!”
Understand what adds value. “Ask if the bag comes as a ‘full set,’ — meaning it has the authenticity card, serial sticker, dust bag, and box — as all of this increases the value long term,” Steinberg recommends, “also ask if the lining is vinyl, because those tend to break down much sooner than the leather linings.”
Prioritize authentication. With purchases this significant, authentication is everything. “Be smart and look out for red flags,” Carpenter warns. “Does a site or seller seem too good to be true?” Steinberg agrees, “at Classic Coco, we guarantee authenticity or your money back.”
Consider your lifestyle. “How do you wear your bags generally? Are you hard on them? Do you store them neatly?” Carpenter asks. “Depending on your habits, buy accordingly for strength and color.” — and on that note, we have ideas!
The Vintage Chanel Bags to Collect:
Best First Chanel and All-Around Icon: Chanel Vintage Classic Double Flap
Why it’s the ultimate investment: “It’s the most iconic Chanel bag of all time,” says Steinberg. “It sits next to Hermès Kelly and Birkin as one of the most iconic and best investment bags, you can choose.”
It’s true, this bag has serious fashion history: In February 1955, Coco Chanel invented this style —the first shoulder bag available to the public— called the 2.55 (for “February” and “1955”). And in 1983, Karl Lagerfeld added the iconic '“CC” turn lock, creating the Classic Double Flap we know today. That’s a legacy!
This is a staple bag for any budding collection. According to Steinberg, it’s also the bag that has appreciated the most in value over the past few years because of Chanel’s continual price increases. “The black lambskin versions, most of all, as they have the iconic burgundy linings.”
Fashion History Legend: Chanel Vintage Diana Bag
Why it’s legendary: Aside from the Chanel Vintage Classic Double Flap, the most iconic style is the Chanel Vintage Diana Bag, named after Princess Diana by Karl Lagerfeld himself.
“There are only so many left on the market!” says Carpenter. It’s limited production period makes these much harder to find than the Classic Double Flap:
Most Versatile: Chanel Vintage Classic Double Flap in Caviar Leather
Why it works for everything: “Again, I would say the Chanel Vintage Classic Double Flap, either in small or medium, because you can wear it crossbody or on your shoulder. The strap moves— it has 4 grommets allowing the chain to easily be moved up and down to adjust the strap length,” Steinberg said.
For durability, caviar leather offers practical advantages. “If you are hard on your bags, invest in a vintage Classic Double Flap in caviar leather,” she advised. The textured surface resists scratches better than lambskin, while still aging beautifully.
Best Bag for Work: Chanel Vintage Supermodel Tote, or Chanel Vintage Grand Shopping Tote XL
Why they’re office-ready: “I’d choose either the Chanel Vintage Supermodel Tote, in caviar leather, or Chanel Grand Shopping Tote (pre-2008 for 24k gold hardware) in caviar leather,” Steinberg recommends.
The Supermodel tote offers modern functionality— “think of it as the Row Margaux 17, but the vintage Chanel version!” It's spacious enough for laptops and can also serve as a carry-on.
Most Coveted by Collectors: Chanel Vintage Crocodile Classic Double Flap
Why collectors covet it: For serious collectors, exotic leathers represent the pinnacle of a complete Chanel collection. “This is the 'Bentley' of all Chanel bags,” says Steinberg, “even better if it's a full set!”
These pieces—whether in classic black, or rare colors like green—showcase peak Chanel craftsmanship and are increasingly scarce on the market.
Best Summer Statement: any from Classic Cocos’s Color Pop Collection!
Why they're perfect for vacation: Classic Coco's ‘Color Pop’ collection offers vacation-ready vintage pieces, “whether you pick the gorgeous Kelly green, or a hot pink, they’re perfect for summer!” said Steinberg.
These vibrant bags capture the playful side of Chanel's design legacy while maintaining the sophisticated construction that makes them worthy investments. The bold colors are perfect for making a statement whether during your summer travels, or simply poolside.
The Undervalued Vintage Chanel to Watch
Exotic leathers in unusual colors: Steinberg points to “vintage Chanel exotics in colors and unusual designs—lizard is an underrated exotic, or ostrich that you can find for great prices.”
Mini and micro mini bags: “Also, some of the minis, including micro minis, are great investments that you can currently get for good prices.” she adds.
Functional styles: “Belt bags and backpacks are also great investments for good prices!” adds Carpenter.
Discontinued designs: “like the Gabrielle—it has multi-colored chains which you can wear with so many other metals and wear the strap multi ways. I feel like that one's gonna have a resurgence,” Carpenter predicts, adding: “from a fashion standpoint, the more unique styles make a well-rounded collection for someone who wants to represent the full scope of what Chanel meant in the design world.”
One Last Note on Building Your Collection
You heard the experts: start with a Classic Double Flap from the 80s-90s —it's the perfect introduction to vintage Chanel, and works with absolutely everything in your wardrobe. From there, let your heart guide you toward pieces that make you feel fabulous — maybe a pop of color that makes you smile!
Half the fun is in the finding and the choosing, but it’s all about knowing where to start— and that knowledge? That's exactly why you read Pre-Loved.
Our experts’ parting advice says it all: “Buy what you love—as much as these are investments, they are still pieces that should reflect your style. Whether it's trending or popular, a great vintage luxury piece can make your style shine, and live a life beyond you with your kids and grandkids. So, once you have your classics, find those pieces that just speak to you—no matter the style!"
Now all that's left is you — your collection is waiting to tell your story, and it all begins with that perfect find!
Thank you for reading! Are you hunting for a specific vintage piece? — I’d love to hear about it! Find me on Instagram, TikTok, and Threads! 💛 - Emily